The Fashionable Mind

A Closer Look: Matthew Williamson's H&M Ads Leaked

2009-04-11T11:50:00.007-04:00

I've never seen a praying mantis look this good! The ads for Matthew Williamson's H&M diffusion line have been leaked. They're colorful, fun and incredibly depressing for anyone who's currently in school, approaching finals. Nevertheless, let the countdown begin - we're only a few weeks away from the collection's debut... Mark your calendars!

A Closer Look: Alexander McQueen's Squeeze It Clutch

2009-03-24T19:12:00.009-04:00

Clutches. They're classic and versatile, but sometimes incredibly boring!

The bowtie silhouette has been recreated by many, but Alexander McQueen's "squeeze it" clutch is a clever, not to mention sexy interpretation of the closet staple.

The clutch, which is currently available on Net-A-Porter, is an attempt to capture both the sexual and sensuous connotations of the female smoker, without the horrid smell, yellow teeth and bad breath that typically follows. So for all my non-smokers, you can now get the smoking affect without actually having to actually...you know...smoke. Don't have to tell me twice!

PS. Sorry for the Alexander McQueen overload today!

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Fashion Talks: Alexander McQueen 'Speaks Out' in Numero Homme

2009-03-24T12:13:00.006-04:00

One of fashion's most outspoken designers, Alexander McQueen continues his controversial streak with comments he made in an interview with editor at large of Numero Homme, Philip Utz.

In the Spring Summer 2009 issue, or (#17), which is now on stands, McQueen called fashion journalism a "thinly-veiled exercise in marketing" and later proclaimed that "the British Fashion Council doesn't know what the fuck it's doing."

The comment that has fashion and entertainment media up in arms referred to Hubert de Givenchy, who he has publicly disparaged in the past. McQueen told Utz, "He was only ever any good at ripping off [Cristobal] Balenciaga." True or not - whoa!

He also spoke about designers he admired, as well as what drew him to the fashion industry:

"Comme des Garçons and Martin Margiela. There are designers that I admire, but I don't look up to them. I don't really look at what everybody else is doing. That's a studio mentality. There comes a time in your life when you focus solely on what you believe is right, regardless of what everybody else is doing."

"I found a way round that by reading a book that showed other designers' routes into fashion: some had been tailors. That's what made me want to work on Savile Row. To learn how to technically make a piece of clothing."

"People who move in [fashion] circles never have anything to say. You know it's hard enough doing this job, I don't have to fucking live it as well. I'd rather sit at home watching Coronation Street."

His comments regarding those in the fashion industry lacking political and social voice can be understood. We're all familiar with the cultural stigmas of being part of fashion. However, those notions of unintelligence and political-ignorance are stereotpyes. McQueen's outspokeness about these topics is extremely important, particularly for fashion, a social institution built on promoting individual opinion, personal interpretation and creativity. Keep em' coming McQueen!

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Spotlight On: Topshop's Spring 2009 Styling

2009-03-17T11:16:00.005-04:00

It's the British fast-fashion retailer, whose US customer base grows daily - thanks to its Kate Moss capsule collection, as well as its newly-opened US online store. And don't forget that in a few months, it can add New York City to its ever-growing list of retail hotspots.

Topshop's website now features their bright, patterned, fringy Spring collection, styled with you and I in mind. However, I'm not too sure that I'm really enjoying the styling of these looks. Nevertheless, the collection is divided into four trend categories - Glory Days, Memphis, Sport Nouveau, and Witchcraft.

Sport Nouveau looks exactly how it sounds - new interpretations on traditionally sporty jerseys and cottons. Memphis seems to reference a deep South aesthetic - distressed and lightwash denim, paired with fringed cowboy-inspired tops and accessories. Glory Days hints at post-war Britain through the usage of English rose prints, gingham and petticoats - This was my least favorite. Lastly, there's Witchcraft, which also looks exactly how it sounds. Riveting prints, which were made to be mis-matched, alongside a hipster suede fringe gilet and super high-heels adorned with metal chainwork.

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Paris Fashion Week Fall 09: Chloé

2009-03-12T18:54:00.013-04:00

Chloé's Fall 2009 collection, which debuted on the runways on Paris yesterday has made it to my Top 3 favorites of this season. Designer Hannah MacGibbon, who looked extraordinarily cute during her finale bow, referenced many popular trends in this predominately neutral-toned collection.

We saw what Style.com called, "a soft version of the early eighties, all big blanket coats, high-waisted fluid pants, wrapped belts, and, for evening, a much-needed dose of the easy glamour Chloé has been missing." Put this up against Marc Jacobs' Fall collection which showed a few weeks ago, and it's definitely a diluted version of the decade I love to loathe.

Then there were the subtle nods to militarism in the over-sized wool coats and buttoned-neck shirts. And what about those full-body jumpsuits?!? These were officially declared a trend of Spring 2009 by their abundance on the runways a few months ago. However, we may be seeing them through the fall months, lasting into winter. Goody.

MacGibbon told press that she drew inspiration from the work of Antonio López Garcia, a Spanish painter and sculptor best known for his realistic style. She hones this 'realism' by trying to stay true to the customer. Particularly in this economic climate, many designers find themselves grappling with a conflict of pragmatism and innovation.

Nevertheless, leave it to MacGibbon to find balance between both! For the pragmatic consumer, who tends to gravitate toward more realistic silhouettes, she created lightweight cardigans, loose-fitting tapered trousers and demi-sheer dresses for day.

But, for the girl who isn't afraid, she gave us Raquel Zimmerman, who strutted a black velvet one-shoulder jumpsuit, with a drapey-oversize hip section and slim-leg silhouette. It was all very, St. Laurent. And for shoes, of course - thigh-high pirate boots, embroidered ballet flats, tan suede ankle boots and a sexy gladiator heel. If this is what Fall 09 looks like, can we just skip spring and summer???

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Spotlight On: Christian Louboutin's Ode To Marie Antoinette

2009-03-11T13:09:00.006-04:00

High-end shoe designer, Christian Louboutin has created a limited-edition capsule shoe collection inspired by Marie Antoinette. He teamed up with world renowed embroiderer Jean Francois Lesage, producing only 36 of the hand-crafted heels worldwide. Stamped with a limited edition serial number, each pair stands as a testament to a perfect balance of scultpture and embroidery. Each will also be sold in a customized box, accompanied by a book illustrating the collaboration and production process. Retailing at a whopping $6,295, the exclusive heels - which also come in three colors - are available at Louboutin's South Coast Plaza and Madison Avenue boutiques.

So, it seems that even in the midst of rough economic times, there is always room for art and craftsmanship for some to indulge in, while others....sit and dream.

A Closer Look: Dita Von Teese Talks To Factio Magazine

2009-03-11T12:26:00.010-04:00

Dita Von Teese, the undisputed international Queen of Burlesque is best known for her cocktail glass show, in which she performs a strip tease and fully submerges herself in an oversize champagne glass - But, we know her as a fashion icon. She has been featured as #13 in Vogue’s Best Dressed, and Harper’s Bazaar UK’s #2 Top Fashion Icon of the year. Recently, she's been in the news for two reasons. Firstly, shoe designer Cesare Paciotti has named one of his newest shoe designs after the burlesque star. And lastly, she just released her first book, Burlesque/Fetish and The Art of the Teese, which delves into her experiences working in both industries. Factio Magazine recently caught up with Von Teese in Chicago to get the scoop on fashion, travel and her current aspirations. Enjoy!

FACTIO MAGAZINE: Give us an inside look at your career as a burlesque artist, retro pin-up and author of Burlesque and the Art of the Teese.

DITA VON TEESE: My book is out now in bookstores everywhere, I am constantly updating my website dita.net with new photos and stories of my day to day life, and I'm a newlywed! I do travel often to London and Paris as well as cities around the world performing my burlesque shows. Most recently, I have performed in Gstaad, Milan , and Berlin. I do try to perform in Los Angeles whenever I can but I am always excited to visit new cities and experience new places!
FM: Describe your signature style.

DVT: I love old-Hollywood style glamour, so I prefer clothes that are very feminine and elegant. Although I collect and wear vintage clothing, I also wear a lot of modern clothes that are reminiscent of vintage clothing. Modern designers I like are Moschino, Marc Jacobs, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior and YSL.

FM: What are your personal favorite shops worldwide?

DVT: Moschino in London and Milan, Chantal Thomass in Paris, Ikram in Chicago, Marc Jacobs in NYC, Louis Vuitton in Paris, Golyester Vintage in Los Angeles, Stephen Jones Millinery in London, and Christian Louboutin which is in London, NY, Paris and Los Angeles.

FM: Where are some of your favorite places to travel and what do you always pick up for your wardrobe?

DVT: I travel to Paris and London quite often. I never leave Paris without buying Chantal Thomass lingerie and Francis Klein sunglasses. I don't shop in Los Angeles where I live very often. Twice a year I attend this Vintage Clothing Expo here, so I hold out for that!

FM: What are you always on the hunt for?

DVT: That one special piece that I can wear a hundred ways! For me, my Roland Mouret Galaxy dress is that, and so is my Dior New Look style suit. I love things I can wear with my art deco jewelry, hats and gloves.

FM: What women and men (from which city worldwide) have great style and why?

DVT: The men that have the best personal style are John Galliano, Zac Posen, Hamish Bowles, and my husband, of course. I love a man who dresses UP! The women whose style I admire are Madonna and Marlene Dietrich. There are lots of women that always look terrific, but I think there are very few celebrities that actually have a signature personal style. Most of them are wearing what their stylist recommends. Marlene Dietrich was a complete individual who broke new ground with the outfits she chose, and she showed women how to look glamorous in pants. And Madonna is the only true style icon of our time, and likely one of the few female entertainers people will remember from our time 100 years from now.

FM: Do you think money and style go hand in hand or can style never be bought? Is it something you just have?

DVT: It helps to have a little money but there are LOTS of wealthy celebrities that we see that look disastrous on a regular basis... I'm not naming any names, but the proof is all around! But on the other hand, I can appreciate anyone that has a 'signature look' that she follows, whether I like it or not.

FM: What would people be most surprised to know about you?

DVT: I don't think anything about me is surprising, but people seem to always be surprised that I am quiet and shy in person just because of what I do. But since when does the volume of one's voice have anything to do with self confidence? And I think that most entertainers are a bit shy off camera or off stage.

FM: If you weren’t in this business, where would you be?

DVT: I would be working with clothes in some way, whether styling fashion shoots, costuming films, or owning my own boutique. I might also be living in Paris.

FM: What tips would you give women and men in general to be well rounded, balancing out life and career?

DVT: I would say to do something you enjoy, and if you can't do something you love, then enjoy your time away from work doing something you love.

FM: Where do you see yourself in five years?

DVT: I think I might just be doing the same thing in that window of time... which at this rate would be a wonderful thing!

FM: Being from Michigan, do you ever travel back and if so, what are your favorite cities and places to go?

DVT: I have been back a couple times and visited a few of my childhood haunts. I have no burning desire to live there again, but it's nice to visit certain areas. I plan making a trip to Michigan's beautiful Mackinac Island this summer. I went there every summer as a child and I dreamed of staying at the historic Grand Hotel, so I am going to finally stay there.... in an enormous suite, no doubt! They have no cars on the island, just bicycles and horse and carriage. It's a wonderfully romantic place.

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Would You Wear: Black Rubber Brogues

2009-03-11T10:30:00.000-04:00

Spotlight On: Karl Lagerfeld's Mink-Covered iPod Helmets

2009-03-10T19:22:00.006-04:00

At his Paris fashion show on Sunday, fashion's grandpappy Karl Lagerfeld debuted some very entertaining mink-covered scooter helmets with iPod capability. They were created in collaboration with French luxury helmet-maker Les Ateliers Ruby and Apple. These helmets, with full carbon fiber shells and ultra-soft burgundy nappa lambskin seem to be Lagerfeld's response to the global recession. "Now everyone is on scooters, even chic women, so we had to do the helmet," he said.

However, the helmets weren't his only endeavors into the controversial world of fur. His predominately black collection featured fur epaulettes, as twists on conventional military coats, as well as classic fur stoles and coats. I would hate to have been coming out of that show to a swarm of PETA protesters. I can see it now...

2009-03-10T19:17:00.001-04:00

“I took all the bones out, and I stitch, and to get there, you know, it took me forever. It took me six or seven dresses to make one. And it’s time and it’s money and we are not doing it in offshore countries - we pay sixty-five percent taxes in France! It is so much work. Doing a collection for me is almost like creating a vaccine. Once you create the one vaccine, then you can duplicate for nine dollars and ninety-nine cents. But see if you can create it for nine dollars and ninety-nine cents, and the answer is no. In that sense, I have absolutely no problem with the prices. I don’t think we do it just to do it.” - Alber Elbaz on designer prices

Fashion Talks: Artist Destroys $12,000 Worth of Louis Vuitton Bags For Scultpture

2009-03-10T18:46:00.005-04:00

R. Lloyd Ming is the conceptual artist responsible for the destroying of 12 G's worth of Louis Vuitton Alma handbags (left). Yes, you read correctly. Ming had an assistant purchase a dozen of the $1,000 Alma bags over the holidays at Manhattan's flagship store. He cut the bags in half to begin constructing a sculpture for his solo exhibit, "I Am Not Chinese." The show will focus on what Ming calls the tenuous relationship between American and Japan, while artistically addressing issues like censorship, human rights and capitalism under communist rule.

"The work is called Vuitton Crucifix and it is a commentary on the new wealth and materialism that has been created in China," Ming told the press. "However it can also refer to America and many other societies. As a result of China's capitalist revolution the ranks of the rich and middle class are growing. However, capitalism often produces a culture of insecurity, were people can only find a sense of self worth or salvation through possessions and materialism. The Vuitton Crucifix sculpture is a reaction to this culture."

Ming uses photography, video art, installation and sculpture to, not only make political statements, but to open political and cultural discourse about issues of importance. Also in the works is a statue of the late Cultural Revolution leader Mao Zedong standing on a box of Dom Perignon Champagne with an the American Express Black Card - the most exclusive credit card in the world. Is it a coincidence that both Louis Vuitton and Dom Perignon champagne are both owned by LVMH?? This should be very interesting. And Ming, did buying counterfeit ones cross your mind? No. We'll I guess treating $12,000 worth of highly-coveted purses like an arts and crafts project is all worth it, huh? Not to trivialize your art...because I will be there.

Ming's art show runs from March 3, 2009 to April 3, 2009 at Studio C. (55 West 74th Street New York NY, 10023). Note: The show is by appointment, so call (212)362.3093.

Paris Fashion Week Fall 09': Dries Van Noten

2009-03-10T14:30:00.000-04:00

Dries Van Noten typically ranks among my favorite shows season after season. I love the Dries Van Noten woman - she's not afraid of color, texture and a subtle, nuanced masculinity. The designer's Fall 2009 collection debuted in Paris and drew bold and warm hues from the paintings of Francis Bacon. “Bacon’s subjects are disturbing, but so, also, his use of color is disturbing,” the designer said. “I tried to explain that in this collection.”

However, in true Dries Van Noten fashion, models strutted loose-fitting silhouettes topped off by structural jackets, marked by remnants of Safari-ism. There were delicate silks, luxurious leathers and a few chunky knits. The designer also took black and white photographs of various cocktail fabrics from the 60's through the 80's, using them as unique prints for dresses and tops.

Yes, the colorblocking of prints was captivating, but my favorite pieces of this collection were the simple, belted overcoats (pictured above). This silhouette comes straight off the streets of cities post World War II, but his borderline melancholy color palette brought something modern to each. For Fall, the designer incorporated many motifs - most of which aren't found in other collections. For the most part, designers this season have been alluding to the 80's through color, silhouette and spirit. Thanks Dries for giving us something a little different.

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Fashion Talks: Michelle Obama Covers O In Michael Kors

2009-03-06T11:57:00.004-05:00

Just in time for Spring, First Lady Michelle Obama and Oprah Winfrey cover the latter's infamous, O magazine in gorgeous gemtones! Moving away from her recent sartorial choices of Jason Wu, J.Crew and Maria Pinto, the First Lady wears American fashion icon, Michael Kors (who she also wore in her official White House portrait). However, as is this isn't fabulous news on its own, Michelle Obama is the first person to every be photographed on the cover of O in its nine years of print! Oprah wore a beautiful fuschia Rachel Roy dress - and they were shot by Bruce Weber. We love the blood-orange Mrs. O!

Look of The Day: Zoe Saldana

2009-02-23T19:03:00.001-05:00

The Politics of Style: Michelle Obama Peter Soronen

2009-02-23T17:05:00.010-05:00

Um, forget the Oscars! Yesterday, President Obama and first lady, Michelle Obama hosted their first black tie dinner party, which welcomed the National Governors Association. So, while we watched Hugh Jackman do pirouettes for four hours straight, Mrs. Obama gracefully stepped out in a dark purple sequined gown designer by Peter Soronen. The designer hails from Chicago and debuted his very first collection at New York Fashion Week during Fall 07'. However, despite his "up-and-coming- designer" status, his line is sold at Barneys New York and Ikram, Michelle Obama's favorite boutique. Designer Tom Binns is responsible for the BEAUTIFUL pearl and crystal necklace she wore to the dinner. Many are calling this gown a bold choice - I call it the RIGHT choice!

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New York Fashion Week Fall 09': Zac Posen

2009-02-22T18:23:00.004-05:00

Zac Posen sent a rather autumnal collection down the New York runways on February 19th. The designer receded to retro, nouveau-chic place, while conceptualizing for Fall 09' and referenced the 40's as inspiration for last week's collection. Posen cast beige, gold, pumpkin, storm gray and numerous other colors, at a time when many designers are playing it safe with the monotonous blacks, to illuminate a collection made up of mostly dresses. And pretty dresses at that. As for fabrics, he employed bold metallic jacquards, violet moiré silk, dashes of plaid and a pinch of fur. We also saw a lot of sculpture: Joan Crawford shoulders, asymmetrical clusters of fabric and and pouf sleeves. These have been consistent sightings over the past week and a half - as designers, collectively, seem to be referencing trends of the 80's. Nevertheless, Posen was a showman and crafted a romantic collection, channelling DRAMA DRAMA DRAMA. And what more could you ask for, right?

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Look Of The Day: Taraji Henson

2009-02-22T18:01:00.003-05:00

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London Fashion Week Fall 09': Vivienne Westwood Red Label

2009-02-22T17:21:00.008-05:00

Vivennne Westwood, the designer partly responsible for bringing elements of the punk sub-culture to mainstream fashion and media debuted her Red Label Fall 09 RTW collection Saturday in London. Even at the ripe age 68, the designer continues, with the signature Westwood candor, to reinvent goth and punk aesthetics, introducing unique interpretations on conventional looks. Westwood's collection offered a twist on the ever-popular naughty schoolgirl character- you know, you probably went to school with one.

She dressed Jo Wood (pictured above center), the estranged wife of Rolling Stone, Ronnie Wood as headmistress, in a three-piece suit of signature Westwood plaid.

Balancing the sprinkles of melodramatic academia, she crowned models with unruly hair and oversize sweaters, signifying the hidden rebel. However, it wouldn't have been a real Vivienne Westwood collection without - tartan. The designer, in her usual fashion, used the woven pattern to construct detention-worthy cloaks and chic jersey dresses we're dying to at least touch. And for his collection Dame Westwood, I'll give you a B.

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London Fashion Week Has Officially Begun!

2009-02-22T17:00:00.001-05:00

Yes, New York Fashion has officially ended, and we've reached the second stop of "fashion month", London, UK.

We will keep you posted, as always, will collection reviews and closer looks at our hotlist for spring. Which, in a sense, means, stay tuned for not only collection reviews, but pretty gladiators, bright-colored mini dresses and tons of florals. Because seriously, here in New York, I think we're all becoming a little tired of this dreadful weather.

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New York Fashion Week Fall 09': Brian Reyes

2009-02-19T19:18:00.006-05:00

Forget about the collection! How can anyone focus on the delicate satins, brocade dresses and sequins when the models can't even walk without stumbling. Designer Brian Reyes collaborated with Manolo Blahnik on the shoes for this Fall 09 collection, which showed this morning, but viewers lost count of the models who toppled over and took their shoes off mid-walk. Those must be pretty damn uncomfortable. By the finale, all shoes were off and the fashion world witnessed a truly historical moment. Tear.

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New York Fashion Week Fall 09': Anna Sui

2009-02-19T18:52:00.004-05:00

Anna Sui showed a typical Anna Sui collection yesterday. Patterns, color and embroidery are staples of the designer's aesthetic - and they were all in overload as Agyness, Jourdan, Lily and Sasha smiled their way down the runway. Each look was topped off with bold 80's-inspired Erickson Beamon jewelry and polished with some interesting footwear. There was - of course - the knee-high embellished boot, what appeared to have been a take on an oxford heel, and the more surprising flat, fringe rendition of the Ugg boot. Agyness opened the show, crowned by a feathered beanie, which almost every model wore. Turquoise paisleys, golds, deep purples, saffrons and even black, adorned the stick-thin models, channelling a serious throwback to the 70's. If you don't believe me, check out the brown leather fringe purses. Is there anything more 70's than a brown leather purse?

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New York Fashion Week Fall 09': Marchesa

2009-02-19T10:39:00.007-05:00

Fashionistas gathered at the Chelsea Art Museum yesterday afternoon and all I could think about was wanting to get dressed up a la prom night once again. Models drowned in tulle, sequins and sparkles, as they flirted with the onlookers, perched on white cubes. "I wanted the whole thing to be like a fairy tale," explained, designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, adding, "We wanted to have fantasy." And there's no fantasy without a classic lilac Grecian gown or a full-skirted grey tulle gown, embroidered with silver roses - not to mention the elegance of a black gown cascaded with flat tulle tiers that appeared to have been dipped in sequins. I die.

Oddly enough, there were three looks that included pants, which Craig said they always include. Well, we can all bet that those two trousers wont be making it to the Oscars next week because clearly, the rest of the collection will. You'd better believe that the following 4 looks are already packed up in some trunk, on their way to celebs or their stylists...

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Look Of The Day via The Sartorialist

2009-02-18T14:37:00.000-05:00

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A Closer Look: Miu Miu Strappy Sandal

2009-02-18T14:16:00.007-05:00

Well, if these Miu Miu gladiator sandals aren't enough to put a smile on your face and make you swoon, I don't know what is! With the spring and summer months slowly approaching, stores have begun stocking up on the closet staple. I strolled into the GAP this weekend to find several pairs of cute, colorful and girly gladiators, as well as plain ruffle thong sandals. Girls, we will be swamped with options this spring. So, it you're not willing to dish out $445 for these recesession-proof Miu Miu's, please don't fret about having to take a trip to your local GAP. It's okay, we understand.

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Fashion Talks: Giorgio Armani on Americans

2009-02-18T13:56:00.002-05:00

"Americans overcook their pasta. Always. And there’s too much sauce. Too much of everything! Please, try to control yourselves," and "I’ve noticed that Americans never block out the light properly in bedrooms. In Europe we like to close ourselves off in the dark.

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